Stuart Pigott via James Suckling

2023 ZEPPWINGERT RESERVE Riesling | 100 points

This is one of those wines where you have to hold on tightly, because you don’t know if you’re being pulled up into heaven or down into the Mariana Trench. Dark and light are so perfectly integrated. There’s a wealth of caramelized pear character and wild herb intensity that leave you totally bamboozled. Then comes the extraordinarily graceful and silky finish that makes it impossible to concentrate on anything else. Fermented and matured in one very well used barrique cask, so very limited production. From organically grown grapes.

2023 BATTERIEBERG Riesling | 99 points

So incredibly deep and incredibly fine, this marries gigantic concentration and finesse. Medium-bodied and barely offdry, this has a balance that defies all the conventional categories. Let yourself be wafted away by its sheer weightless finish. Limited production due to a yield of just 20 hectoliters per hectare. From organically grown grapes.

2023 ZOLLTURM Riesling | 98 points

There’s a mind-blowing tension between the enormous stone fruit character of this great dry Mosel riesling and its cool and dry core, around which ample leesy creaminess is entwined. Then comes the gigantic finish, which has a deep base of fine tannins over which a fabulously delicate richness is laid. From organically grown grapes.

2023 ELLERGRUB Riesling | 96 points

The incredible wild herb and licorice aromas pull you inexorably into this enormously structured yet only medium-bodied dry Mosel riesling. Very radical, also radically minerally and dry on the medium-bodied palate. Yet the animating acidity is almost totally below the waterline, like a whale invisibly following a ship. There’s amazing depth and originality in the wild herb and wet stone finish. From organically grown grapes.

2023 BRIEDELER HERZCHEN Riesling | 95 points

Structure and elegance are precisely balanced in this ravishingly beautiful, barely medium-bodied Mosel masterpiece. What graceful peachy fruit this has, but it is the concentration and suspense building in the finish that make this really extraordinary. Extremely slatey finish. From organically grown grapes.

2023 STEFFENSBERG Riesling | 95 points

This wine is young and might seem eccentric to some because the youthful and more mature elements are not yet totally integrated, but how could you not like it? The way freshness and creaminess are interwoven on the medium-bodied palate is stunning. The stone fruit and smoky aromas are fascinating. Then comes the long, silky and delicate finish. From organically grown grapes.

2023 ESCHEBURG Riesling | 94 points

Pretty closed, with an intense flinty character in the first moment, this needs some aeration to bring out the stone fruit, caramelized pear and pie crust aromas. Concentrated and creamy, with a deep well of minerality, this de facto village wine has stunning depth and finesse on the medium-bodied palate. Then the almost endless finish knocks you sideways. From organically grown grapes grown in all the top sites of Enkirch, with the Ellergrub slightly in the majority.

2023 DETONATION Riesling | 93 points

If you want to feel transported back to the golden age of German riesling a century and more ago, then this wine does that for you. Full of golden fruit aromas and a delicate spiciness, it is barely medium-bodied with restrained power and lovely elegance. Really caresses the palate in the long, silky finish. A cuvee of wines from the vineyards in Enkirch, Briedel and Dhron, mostly from over 40-yearold vines.

2023 CAI Riesling | 92 points

This may be an entry-level wine, but it has a wonderful golden autumnal mellowness that’s like nothing else in Germany. I love the interplay of Mirabelle plum and smoke aromas with the restrained creaminess and delicate minerality on the medium-bodied palate. Emphatically dry but beautifully balanced finish.

2023 ELBLING | 91 points

I love the caramelized pear and cider aromas of this creamy, light- to mediumbodied natural wine that radically reinterprets this ancient grape variety. Beautiful balance and good length, which is even more remarkable when you consider it has just 9.5% alcohol. From organically grown grapes from 50-year-old vines. No sulfites added. Unfiltered.